Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
